kill rodents

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Rat Facts

Wild rats live off man and give nothing beneficial in return. Rats spread disease, damage structures and contaminate food and feed. Rats damage one-fifth of the world's food crop each year. The real damage is in contamination. One pair of rats shed more than one million body hairs each year and a single rat leaves 25,000 droppings in a year.
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Rats transmit Murine typhus fever, rat bite fever, salmonellosis or bacterial food poisoning, Weils disease or leptospirosis and trichinosis, melioidosid, brucellosis, tuberculosis, pasteurellosis, rickettsial diseases, and viral diseases such as foot-and-mouth disease. Norway rats can also carry the rabies virus.
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The Norway rat and the Roof rat are not native North American species. They traveled to the new world with the first explorers. The two species quickly invaded the continent because of their adaptability and fertility. Norway rats are found throughout the United States while roof rats primarily inhabit southeastern, Gulf Coast and southwestern states.
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Rats memorize their environment by body and muscle movement alone. They become so engrained by body movements that when objects are removed from their territory, rats will continue to move around them as if the objects where still there.
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Successful control depends on proper identification of the different species. Norway and Roof rats differ in size, habits, food preferences and regions. Techniques that eliminate one species may not eliminate the other.
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Many times roof rats live in the upper stories of buildings, while Norway rats occupy the basement and first floor of the same building.

Rats visit fewer food sites than mice. However, rats eat much more at each site than mice.
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Rats constantly leave droppings. Fresh droppings are dark in color and soft in texture, but after three days they harden and lose the dark color.
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Rats always travel the same runways and leave "smudge marks" - a buildup of dirt and oil from their fur - along walls, pipes, gnawed openings and beams and rafters.
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Rats keep indoor runways, or well-used paths free of cobwebs, debris and dust. Outside, runways appear as narrow paths through vegetation.
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Rats make sounds when climbing, clawing and moving.




Chipmunk Sounds
(It's worth the wait)


Footprints and tail drags can be seen in dusty locations. Use tracking dusts such as talcum or flour to determine if rodents are frequenting certain areas.
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Gnaw marks are a sure sign of rats. On wood, the older the gnawing, the darker the wood.
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If dogs or cats unexplainably get excited, rats are probably moving about in wall voids or ceilings.


Roof Rat

COMMON NAME:


Roof/black/ship rat

SCIENTIFIC NAME:


Rattus rattus Linnaeus

CLASS/ORDER/FAMILY:


Mammalia/Rodentia/Muridae


INTRODUCTION
The Roof rat is the smaller of the 2 commensal rats (Norway rat is larger) and the more common commensal rat in the subtropical and tropical regions of the world. It not only damages/destroys materials by gnawing, eats and contaminates stored food, but it is also of human health importance as a vector or carrier of disease organisms. Roof rats are usually thought to be of southeast Asian origin, and are now worldwide in distribution. In the United States, it is more common in the coastal states, seaports, and the southern third of the country.

RECOGNITION
Adult with combined head and body length 6-8"; (16-20 cm), tail length 7-10" (19-25 cm), usual weight 5-9 oz. (150-250 g) but up to 12 oz. (340 g). Fur soft, smooth, color usually brown with black intermixed, to gray to black above with underside white, gray, or black. With muzzle pointed, eyes large, ears large (can be pulled over eyes) and almost naked. Tail scaly, uniformly dark, /longer than head and body combined. Adult droppings up to 1/2" (12.5 mm) long, spindle-shaped, with pointed ends.

SIGNS OF INFESTATION
1. Gnaw marks. New gnawings or holes tend to be rough whereas, old gnawings are smooth from wear.

2. Droppings. Fresh droppings are soft and moist whereas, old droppings are dried and hard; adult roof's about 1/2"
(12-13 mm) with pointed ends vs. Norway's about 3/4" (18-20 mm) with blunt ends.

ROOF RAT DROPPINGS
The droppings below are all from the same rat.
The larger droppings were produced after being fed a meal of dog food.
Roof Rat Droppings Ground Rat (Norway) Droppings
Rat droppings



3. Tracks/footprints. Front foot 4-toed and print is in front of usually longer hind print with 5 toes. Fresh tracks are clear
and sharp

4. Rub marks or dark, greasy markings on vertical surfaces. Fresh marks are soft, greasy, and easily smeared whereas,
old marks are with the grease dry and flaky. Swing marks often present around rafters

5. Burrows. Not common, but if present they are shallow. They usually nest in or under vegetation or in attics.

6. Runways. Travel routes may not be apparent outside because they may travel along fences or on overhead power
or telephone lines. Indoors, they usually move along walls, stacked merchandise, etc. Active runways with greasy
appearance, free of dust and cobwebs, with fresh tracks and/or droppings.

7. Damaged goods. Roof rats prefer fruits, vegetables, and cereal whereas, Norway rats prefer meat fish and cereal.

SIMILAR GROUPS
(1) Norway rat (Rattus norvegicus) with blunt muzzle, small eyes, ears small and hairy, tail bicolored and shorter than head plus body, droppings rod-shaped with blunt ends.
(2) Hispid cotton rat (Sigmodon hispidus) with tail about half head-body length combined and less heavy (weight 2 3/4-7 oz/80-198 g), and fur coarse and grizzled, grayish above with mixed buff, black, and whitish below.
(3) House mouse (Mus musculus) with tail about as long as head plus body, smaller (about 1/2-1 oz/14-28 g), shorter (head, body, and tail 5.25-7.5-/6.5-10.2 cm), droppings 1/8-1/4" (3-6 mm) long, rod-shaped, with pointed ends.
(4) Most native rats and mice with tail hairy, hairs short or long, or if tail almost naked, it is also annulate (appears to be of ringlike segments).

BIOLOGY
Roof rats reach sexual maturity in 2-5 months. Pregnancy lasts an average of 22 days. The young are blind and naked at birth, with hair appearing in about 7 days and eyes opening in 12-14 days. They are weaned at about 3-4 weeks. The average number of litters is 4-6 per year, each containing an average of 6-8 young. Adults on an average live 9-12 months.

They have rather poor vision and are color blind, but their senses of hearing, smell, touch, and taste are keenly developed. Touch is via their vibrissae or long whiskers. They are good runners, excellent climbers and jumpers, and if forced, rather good swimmers.

A roof rat requires 1/2-1 oz (14-28 g) of food and 1 oz (30 ml) of water each day, with the water often coming from its food. This results in about 30-180 droppings and 1/2 oz/3 teaspoons (16 cc) of urine per day.

Historically, bubonic plague has been associated with the roof rat and its fleas, which move from infested rats to man. Fortunately, plague has not been found in rats in the United States for many years. Other transmitted disease organisms include murine typhus via fleas (also probably via droppings and urine), infectious jaundice/leptospirosis/Weil's Disease via urine in water or food, rat-bite fever via bites, trichinosis via undercooked pork, and food poisoning or Salmonellosis via droppings. Another problem is tropical rat mite dermatitis which is caused by these mites when they feed on humans.

HABITS
Roof rats are primarily nocturnal in habit and they are very cautious. Although they constantly explore their surroundings, they shy away from new objects and changes. Roof rats prefer to nest in the upper parts of structures but may be found under buildings as well as occasionally in basements and sewers. Outdoors, they prefer to nest in higher places such as in trees but may occasionally be found in burrows in or under vegetation around the structure. These are social animals but less so than Norway rats. Several nests may be located within a given area. An opening of greater than 1/2" (12 mm) is required for entry into buildings.

Although they will eat practically anything, roof rats prefer fruits, vegetables, and cereals. If the eaten food material proves disagreeable, they are quick to develop food/bait shyness. Once they find an acceptable/preferred food, rats tend to eat their fill at one sitting/place and will return time after time.

Once established indoors, roof rats tend to follow the same route or pathway between their harborage and food and/or water sources. Runways along vertical surfaces will usually include dark rub or swing marks on the vertical surface where their fur makes contact. Their runways will be free of debris, and outdoors, the grass will be worn away to the bare soil.



The key to any rat or rodent control program is pest identification, sanitation, harborage elimination, and rat-proofing the building. Control is based on the behavioral habits of the roof rat. Some of the more important things to remember are:

1.

Rats defecate where they spend most of their time. Use rat droppings as an indication of where to concentrate the control efforts. Nontoxic tracking powder can also be used to determine where they are most numerous.

2.

Rats will travel 100-150 ft (30.5-45.7 m) for food and/or water along established runways. Look for rub/swing marks and clean runways. Place Big Snap-E Rat Traps or Protecta bait stations along runways and against vertical surfaces. Glue boards wired to traveled pipes, rafters, etc. are effective.

3.

Rats are gluttons. Place sufficient bait in each bait station for at least 1 meal.. Once a preferred bait is found, they utilize this bait until feeding stops.

4.

Rats are cautious. Minimal disturbance is desirable when putting out. Big Snap-E Rat Traps or Protecta bait stations. Pretrapping with unset snap traps or prebaiting with nontoxic bait may be necessary.

5.

Roof rats prefer fruits, vegetables, and cereals. Use such high-carbohydrate baits and bait the center of glue boards and snap traps with such foodstuffs.

6.

Rats usually have a water source other than their food if their food has a low moisture content.

Statement

Rodent Control can be a challenge. While one infestation may only require one rodent control procedure. Another rodent problem may need all the rodent control devices you can get your hands on.


Mouse Facts

By mid-fall of every year, through out most of the U.S. and similar temperate zones, domestic mice and rats and some other local outdoors species will ,have already found the places they plan to spend the winter. There may not yet be enough signs for you to notice them, their droppings or other signs, but that could change quickly. They have most likely begun producing their next litters, and have found and laid down trails to the places where you keep the food and nesting materials they will need for the next several months. One morning soon, you may be surprised to find a hole chewed in your cereal box or rodent droppings on your kitchen counter, or even mouse hairs on your dishes.

· The house mouse is the most common pest in and around human living and working places. They damage and destroy
materials by gnawing, eating your food (especially cereal products or nuts), attacking decorations such as floral or
harvest/grain" arrangements. They can carry human diseases and ectoparasites that may bite people or pets. The
house mouse has a head-plus-body length of about 2.5 to 3.5 inches, and is gray with dull white belly fur. An adult only
weighs about an ounce, but they eat often (nibble) and leave their typical `calling card' droppings at places where they
sat down to feed for a little while. Mouse droppings are long and pointed compared to the larger, blunt droppings of rats.

Mice may look cuddly, but they breed rapidly. A house mouse can breed 35 days after it was born, and can have its
own first litter of up to eight pups by the time it is 60 days old. Although they usually live only about a year, if all their
offspring lived and reproduced at a similar rate, one pair of house mice could produce a population of more than 500
mice in one year.

Mice are good at climbing and jumping. They can jump about a foot straight up, and can jump down more than six feet
without getting hurt. An adult mouse can squeeze through a crack or hole as small as 3/8-inch across and can quickly
climb straight up an eight-foot wall of brick or wood paneling in less than half a minute. Even though one mouse doesn't
eat much, as their population grows, they can eat a surprising amount of food. They also damage food containers, and
their droppings and urine droplets contaminate a lot more food than they eat. In a year, one mouse produces up to
18,000 droppings; and it will deposit hundreds of micro-droplets of urine every day as it marks its trails.

Mice can spread more than 20 kinds of organisms that can cause diseases of humans and pets. These include a
variety of food poisoning bacteria like Salmonella, Shigella, E. coli, and others; tapeworms, mites, ticks, and rickettsial
pox. Other rodents, which are widespread and may also come indoors for the winter such as deer mice and white-footed mice which can carry and spread other disease organisms like Hantavirus, plague and Lyme Disease.

Hantavirus is a deadly disease spread over most of the U.S. As of June 2002, of the 318 human cases reported by the CDC, from 31 states, 37% have been fatal. Deer mice (Peromyscus maniculatus) are a major host of the virus. The virus is transmitted to humans via dust that is inhaled after it has been contaminated by the mouse’s saliva, urine, and feces.

The white-footed mouse (Peromyscus leucopus) is distributed through the contiguous 48 states of the U.S. This mouse plays a vital role in the life cycle of Lyme Disease. According to the CDC, over 16,000 human cases of Lyme Disease were reported during the year 2000. Although it is infected ticks that bite humans and pets, the white-footed mouse is the source of the bacteria that causes the disease. The larva tick, soon after it hatches, feeds on the mouse and gets infected. Elimination of this mouse species near homes and businesses can reduce this public health threat.

Safeguard your family and business health by using Kaput® Mouse Blocks.

Kaput® Bait Block
For the Control of Deer Mice and White-footed Mice

The white-footed mouse is an important vector in the life cycle of Lyme Disease. When a tick hatches, it seeks a single blood meal. In the mid-west, northeast, and southern states, the tick will feed on the white-footed mouse. The larva picks up the infection from the white-footed mouse. The following season, the nymphal or adult will seek a blood mean, and often this is a human (in the backyard, camping, or hiking). In biting the human the bacteria that causes Lyme disease is transmitted the person, which develops into Lyme disease within a couple of weeks.

Kaput® Bait Block is the only product approved in the US to control the white-footed mouse, an important vector that contributes to the spread of a very serious disease.

About Mice:
General Biology: (House mice, deer mice and white-footed mice)

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Life span is 1-2 years
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Can have as many as 8 litters in one year. Breeding life of females 6-10 litters.
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Litter size is usually 6 young. Young mice can begin breeding at 6-10 weeks of age.
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Eyesight is poor; however, very good sense of smell, hearing and touch
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Mice are omnivorous, meaning they will eat various foods such as grains, insects, seeds, fruit, vegetation, etc.
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Active mostly at night, but can be seen during the day
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Live in a hierarchical system with dominant males ruling a territory
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All mature mice tend to show aggression toward strange individuals of either sex
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House mice are gray to brown on back with underside a lighter shade of color on back, sometimes creamy
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Deer mice and white-footed mice have larger eyes and ears than the house mouse. Deer mice and white-footed mice also are light brown/tan on top, with a distinctly white underside
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Deer mice have a distinct bi-colored tail that is white on bottom, and white-footed mice do not

Interesting Facts:

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Mice contaminate food and grain more so than rats. In 6 months one pair can consume about 4 lbs. of food and deposit about 18,000 droppings.
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Quick to explore any physical changes in their environment
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Capable swimmers if they need to be
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Can squeeze through openings slightly larger than ¼ inch in diameter
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They are excellent jumpers for their size, and can jump a foot high from the floor to an elevated flat surface
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When rats are eliminated, house mice move in, or increase in population.
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Reportedly house mice will drive away deer mice and white-footed mice.

Why Rodent Control:

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World Health Organization estimates that about 33 million tons of food is destroyed world-wide each year.
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Rodents destroy property by their constant chewing.
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Rodents can put livestock at risk of death and disease.
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Rodents can carry diseases to humans such as rat bite fever, leptospirosis, salmonellosis, and plague to name a few.
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Deer mouse range White-footed mouse range

Label MSDS

Mice are nocturnal creatures, and, therefore, are rarely seen by the homeowner. The most obvious indicators of their
presence are droppings (1/8 - 1/2-inches long, dark and pointed at both ends), sounds of them running, gnawing or
squeaking, or damage to stored food or materials used for nesting.

Compared to rats, mice forage only short distances from their nest -- usually not more than 10-25 feet. When food and
shelter are adequate, their foraging range may be only a few feet. For this reason, traps and other control devices must
be placed in areas where mouse activity is most apparent. Mice prefer to travel adjacent to walls and other
edges-- another critical point to remember when positioning control devices. Mice are very inquisitive and will investigate
each new object placed in their foraging territory. If control devices are not initially successful, move them around to a
different location.

Mice feed on a wide variety of foods but prefer seeds and cereal grains. They also are fond of foods high in fat and
protein such as nuts, bacon, butter and sweets (an important point to remember when choosing a bait for snap traps).
Mice are "nibblers" and may make 20-30 visits to different food sites each night.

^ Top ^
Tactics for Control

To control mice, you must "think like a mouse," keeping in mind the behavioral traits noted above. The best way to
control mice is to prevent their entry. Mice are able to squeeze through extremely small openings narrower than the
diameter of a dime. Cracks in the foundation 1/4 inch and larger should be sealed, as should gaps and openings under
doors and where utility pipes enter the structure.

Good sanitation and food storage practices are helpful in reducing problems with house mice. Since seeds are a
preferred food, all adjacent to the building should likewise be eliminated. However, because mice are able to occupy
such small nesting areas and survive on minute amounts of food, sanitation alone will not normally eliminate an existing
infestation.

Other than calling a pest control firm, homeowners have three control options available for ridding their
premises of mice:

· baits, known as rodenticides,

· Live traps or Lethal Traps or glue boards.

^ Top ^
Rodenticides

Rodenticides Marketed to homeowners are formulated almost exclusively as food-based baits containing seeds or
grain as an attractant. Most rodenticides sold over the counter are anticoagulants containing brodifacoum,
chlorophacinone, diphacinone or warfarin as active ingredients. They kill by interfering with normal clotting of the
rodents' blood, causing the animal to die from internal bleeding. Since mice forage only short distances from their
nests, optimum results are achieved with multiple bait placements as close to the mouse harborage as possible.
Extreme care must be taken to position baits in areas inaccessible to children or pets. Dogs, in particular, will
seek out and find baits placed in areas which are accessible.

Traps

Traps are generally preferred over rodenticide (baits) when only a few mice are present. Traps are less hazardous to
use around children and pets. Because mice are caught by the trap, there is less chance of odor from mice dying in
wall voids or other inaccessible areas. Trapping efficiency will be enhanced by placing small pieces of bacon, gum
drops, peanut butter or raisins in the trigger hole. Research has shown that traps with an expanded trigger catch
significantly more mice than conventional designs. Another type of trap available is a multiple-catch mouse trap. This
device can capture and hold a dozen or more mice before needing to be emptied. We have expanded trigger
Snap-E Mouse Traps and the multiple-catch mouse trap 24/7 Trapper right her for your purchase.

Regardless of which design is used, traps should be placed up against walls, behind objects, and in secluded
areas where mouse droppings, gnawing and damage are evident. Snap traps should be oriented perpendicular
to the wall, with the trigger end facing the vertical surface of a wall, even when using the Protecta Mouse Stations.
Multiple-catch traps should be oriented with the entrance hole parallel to the wall.

Glueboards

Glueboards also are very effective against mice. Mice become entangled in the glue when they run over the boards,
soon dying of suffocation. In addition to traps, they are the method of choice in homes and other sensitive locations
where toxic baits are a concern. Should the glue from a glue board contact the fur of a pet or the skin of a child,
it can be removed with mineral or vegetable oil.

Snap-E Mouse Traps the 24/7 Live Trap and glue boards should be checked daily and dead mice disposed
of in plastic bags. Gloves should be worn when handling mouse carcasses to prevent any chance of disease.





http://www.pestcontrol-products.com/rodent/rat_facts.htm#mousefacts

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Poison Free! Just wind it and forget it!

The Ketchall winding mouse trap has been used in homes, restaurants, schools, food processing facilities, hospitals, and other sensitive areas for over 70 years ! Developed by Mr. Kness himself to control mice in a local school in the early 1930's, the ketchall winding mouse trap has become an icon in the pest control industry. Simply wind it up and place it against a wall or other rodent runway and leave it ! Mice will go inside looking for shelter and will immediately be tossed into a holding area. Great for use where poisons cannot be used.

Can capture up to 15 mice in 1 setting !

Dimensions: 9 1/4" x 7 1/4" x 5 1/4"

1 Year Warranty Against Breakage

Regular Price - $29.95 each

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The RatZapper is the result of consumer demand for a more affordable "Zapper". They've designed the Rat Zapper 2000 to be every bit as effective as it's big brother, but with out the large batteries and industrial look.

The advantages of the RatZapper 2000 are as follows:
* Clean (no blood or guts) and re-usable
* More humane than snap traps, glue boards, and poison
* Safe around pets and children
* Designed for mice and rats of all sizes
* Compact (10" x 4" x 4") and easy to use
* 10-20 rodent kills with one set of alkaline AA batteries
* Flashing kill indicator light (you never have to see the dead rodent!)
* Built in battery check
* Reduce exposure to Hantavirus and other diseases carried by rodents
* Not an ultrasound device
* Optional Rat Tale that uses D size batteries for a stronger shock!
* Optional remote monitoring capability

Actual Size (4" x 4" x 10-1/2") RatTale also available.
4 - Energizer E2 Lithium Batteries Recommended with the Ratzapper Classic
4 - D Cell Batteries Recommended with the Ratzapper Ultra
* Ratzapper Ultra Does Not Need Power Pack*
Choose with or without batteries
ePestSupply Money Back Guarantee!

Price:

$59.95
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